My shark encounter went down yesterday when I decided I'd give snorkeling a second go around. Johnathon and I snorkeled with some friends when we first got here, and it was a very okay experience. Don't get me wrong, the snorkeling on Kwaj is beautiful. There is lots of reef to explore with fish I have never seen before, but I found that I spent most of my snorkel time looking behind me for rogue dorsal fins instead of down at the coral. I felt like since we have such a short time out here, I should give snorkeling another go, cause I may never be in such a pristine location again. I was talking with my friend Paula, who offered to take me snorkeling again, and promised we could have a nice and easy snorkel day to get me comfortable in the water. Paula and I met up yesterday morning to go snorkeling off of Emon Beach (a very popular beach on Kwaj were LOTS of people swim and scuba daily). I didn't have any fins and would've had to borrow some, but since Paula and I are pretty good swimmers, we opted to swim without fins. Mistake number 1.
I was a little nervous starting off, but Paula was a really great guide, and pointed out lots of cool fish, and I started to relax and actually enjoy it. We were out relatively early in the morning, and I noticed that way more fish were out and active than they were on my first snorkel trip. We saw a puffer fish, lots of pretty colored reef fish, and a small school of some bigger fish (maybe Aku or Cawa Cawa?). We started to swim back toward the beach and were not very far from shore when Paula abruptly stopped swimming. This is were we abandoned all universally recognized signs for shark, and Paula yelled through her snorkel "oh look, there's a shark!"It's important to mention for your mental picture benefit that Paula is 7 months pregnant. I wish I could report that I stayed calm and admired the shark from afar, or did the noble thing and put the very pregnant girl behind me and away from danger...but I'm gonna be honest with you...that was not at all what I did. As soon as I heard Paula's muffled, snorkel declaration of "SHARK!" I latched myself onto her leg and did not let go. She grabbed both my arms to reassure me, and we floated there in a awkward human knot, and began and 10 second staring competition with the shark that was floating over the reef maybe 15 ft away.
Everybody told me that sharks on Kwaj are not that big, and are scared of humans. Everyone said they're more scared of us than we are of them, and swim away as soon as they see us. Everyone on Kwaj is a lair. That shark was freaking huge, and not at all alarmed that we snuck up on its breakfast time. It stared at us for a few seconds, then swam TOWARD us. I couldn't really tell how long it was initially, but I could tell it was fat. This lead me to conclude that:
A) it was pregnant, and probably territorial and hormonal
B) It was fat because it ate a lot, and is thus very good at what it was put on this Earth to do.
Either way, not the tiny, scared shark I was expecting to see. Awesome. I love surprises. The shark kept some distance between us, did a half circle around us, then (thank God) swam off toward to reef drop off. Paula and I then began what some might describe as a "vigorous, free style swim" back to shore. Seriously, I was swimming so fast, I think I was more on top of the water, than in it. Once we were on the beach, we had to debrief about what just happened. All I kept saying was "THAT WAS BIG, RIGHT?! THEY'RE NOT NORMALLY THAT BIG, RIGHT?! I MEAN...HE WAS HUGE...RIGHT?!" Paula did indeed confirm my suspicions that the shark was, in fact, larger than the average bear. We also decided that the shark was a grey reef shark, which, after a brief search on Wikipedia, I discovered is the more aggressive of the reef sharks here on Kwaj. Terrific. Paula and I were sure the shark had to be 6ft long, however, Wikipedia informs me that 6 ft is the max length they ever get. So I'll say it was probably a husky 4 ft. Seriously, all kudos to Paula, she was very calm through the whole encounter, and didn't hold it against me that I clung to her leg- preventing her from a quick escape, and kept her between me and the shark at all times. Gotta love that kind of intentional oversight in a person.
I guess I'll sum up this story this way: I met a shark in it's natural habitat, and lived to swim another day...with both feet attached. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the shark did not immediately try to eat me, as my fears had led me to believe. They really are graceful, powerful creatures that are (in a way) cool to encounter. I will never describe them as cute like many Kwaj people do. I also have no desire to see one again, unless its at an aquarium. :)
Grey reef shark |
Another Grey Reef for your viewing pleasure... |